When I was deciding where to visit in India, I knew Kerala had to be on the list for a number of reasons: three of the people I love the most have visited here and are very fond of it; St Thomas visited here, and I have certain fondness for him from having been on Retreat in 2000 and discovering for myself the power of repeating his words for myself, ‘My Lord and my God’; it is known to be a more markedly Christian area and I wanted to see how Christianity is expressed here in terms of worship, buildings, decoration and music.
Well, today has lived up to all my expectations – and then some more.
Before I left the UK, I did a bit of planning and knew there some places I wanted to visit (I saw two of them yesterday) and then made my way to two of the others today: St Rockey’s Church and St Anthony’s Shrine.
St Rockey has different spellings to his name, depending on which country you are. I first encountered him (and his one bare leg!) when in Italy in 2022. I kept seeing this saint who had one leg bared of its ‘tights’, with him pointing towards some sort of lesion/sore. I pointed him out to the friend I was visiting and we eventually managed to track him down on a well-known search engine near you by typing in some form of: saint bare leg pointing.
St Rocco as he is known in Italy, St Rockey here in Kerala, saw the trials of those so ill with the Plague and chose to help them. Whilst offering succour to those so unwell, he also succumbed to the illness and the lesion on his leg reveals his own illness. St Rockey’s Church was definitely on my list for travels here in Kodungallur when it ‘appeared’ on Maps a few months ago.
I decided to brave a local bus. I say ‘brave’ because a) the destinations of buses are written in Hindi so you have trust the conductor will understand your accent when you ask if they are travelling where you want to go and b) they travel along at terrifying speeds!
I succeeded in catching an appropriate bus and held on tight! As I was travelling along, I was checking the map to see where we were and up popped Basilica of Mary. It was a few stops before where I wanted so I just had to get off to check it out. As you do. You’ll see it has a great name: Our Lady of the Snow. Given my surname, I thought it was sign. Up the track I went, and I began to hear music playing. ‘Great! There is a service I can join,’ I thought, little realising until a few minutes in that it was actually a funeral. I decided my presence was not required so made a quiet exit stage left and planned to come back later.
I set off for St Rockey’s – about a 15 minute walk down the road (in 29C heat!) where I happened upon a First Communion Service. For one moment I thought it was a young woman joining a religious community as she was wearing a white dress and veil. Then I saw the giving of the candle and her face as someone much younger and realised. So I set off for a walk – and some water. I can back about 15 minutes later and decided to join the service (sitting right at the back of the additional wing of the building). As the service concluded, pictures were taken and I decided – after a suitable break – to enter into the church to see St Rockey for myself. I am sure my Italian friend, Laura (who I met when we were both beginning to learn Arabic at CityLit in London) will be delighted when I send her the pics. I certainly am – to have found him here in India!
Back then up the road to The Basilica of Our Lady of the Snow. What a lovely place in a beautiful setting by the river. I arrive just ahead of a wedding! A young woman came over to talk to me. She said hello and I asked her if she had come to be brave and practise her English speaking to me. ‘Yes’, she said! We had a lovely conversation – with her telling me she definitely needed to practice because she wants to be Cabin Crew for Emirates. What a great job ambition – even if, as we both agreed, it is hard job.
Our Lady of the Snow was a happy ‘stumble upon’ experience today, as was Pallipuram Fort. There isn’t much to see at the latter, but it does hold great historic significance. I think the chap at the entrance was rather amazed to see someone, whilst the lady sweeping the leaves off the sand at the back seemed positively delighted! It is right beside the river – in what would have been a strategic position for its purpose.
The next place I knew I wanted to see on my travels in Kerala was St Antony’s Shrine. 'It’s there on the map. It’s kind of in the locality (I had no idea of the distances between places!) It’ll be fine.' (A mere 2 miles in the heat of the day!) I came across a kind of ‘Slipper Chapel’ en route. I was very glad of the cool and shade it provided as I journeyed along the road… and I took a small detour to visit a Hindu Temple.
St Antony’s Shrine. I mean. Wow. I was not expecting anything so huge or so complex. It really is a whole complex – including a convention centre. Wow! I am so glad to have taken the beaten track (literally in parts) to visit. It was so beautiful and lovely to be in such a calming environment. With extensive facilities, it is obviously a really important place of pilgrimage locally and a lot of care goes into its upkeep. There were people there of all ages – some forty or so – in the different buildings and chapels. Some young people were ‘taking the waters’ from St Antony’s Well – as did I (although I didn’t drink it!) and a bird! The older folk were in prayer in the various chapels. A guard was concerned for my welfare and asked, through the broken interpretation and hand gestures of a member of staff, if I needed food. I am just so glad I found this place today. (Check out the pics and see the slide formed of angel’s wings. I kid you not!)
And then there was the bus ride back – from about half a mile down the road. It was certainly nothing like London Transport, let me tell you. The (aged in his 20s) Bus Conductor (with machine to churn out tickets) had his phone blue-toothed to six speakers and was treating us to his favourite tunes. (I even made a video!) Fantastic!
And here's a lovely trio of butterflies I saw along the way. I've seen butterflies every day. As a symbol of the resurrection, they are filling these days with such gift. I even have a video of them too.
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